October 4th, 2020

Formulating moisturizers

Moisturizers are preparations that can increase the water content of the stratum corneum. Moisturizing creams, gels, and lotions are generally applied for the alleviation of the signs and symptoms of dry and cracked skin resulting in a soft, smooth, and supple skin. Moisturizers are the basis of other products such as rich night creams, sun lotions, anti-aging creams, etc.

The most popular method of achieving moisturization is to use of emollients and humectants.
Emollient like oils or waxes make skin feel soft and smooth often make an extra barrier to water loss by their occlusive action to help reducing the trans epidermal water loss. They cause a rapid reversal of the rough skin feel in dry skin by filling up the cracks in stratum corneum and enhance the unity in corneocytes.

On the other hand, humectants demonstrate hygroscopic behavior to hold onto a large amount of water. An aqueous solution of the humectant reduces TEWL by holding the water in the intercellular lipid matrix present between the corneocytes in the stratum corneum. Humectants increase the water content of the stratum corneum and keep it soft and supple. Other hydrating materials such as hyaluronic acid provide protection and moisture to the skin.

Building blocks of moisturizing products

Most effective moisturizers cannot be used without some modification because they are difficult to apply and can leave the skin feeling tacky or greasy. For example, petroleum jelly is an excellent emollient, but the application and feel of it are not favorable. For this reason, moisturizers are formulated into cosmetic emulsions and microemulsions, stabilized with an appropriate emulsifier system to make emulsion-based systems available as milk, lotions, creams, and gels. A product may have excellent moisturizing properties but without good aesthetics, no one would like to pay for it and apply it.

The basic components of a moisturizing product include moisturizers, an emulsifier system, water, preservative, and antioxidants if necessary. Moisturizers are used to relieve the symptoms of dry skin but at the same time, people with normal, combination, and oily skin still need to use a specific moisturizer to their skin to prevent their skin from becoming dry.

Should you be interested to have a full presentation of our innovative and sustainable moisturizing formulations, please click here.